2024 Giro d’Italia: Stage 5 Preview

For the Racers

Stage 5 of the 2024 Giro d’Italia is raced almost entirely along the Statale Aurelia, following its every bend and undulation. Intricate, however not too demanding, the route passes Camaiore, takes in a short ascent to Montemagno, descends along the Val Freddana and leads all the way to the finish in Lucca.

Final kilometres

The final kilometres are flat and straight, with a few wide halfbends in between, and (of note) one 90degree turn 2.5 km before the finish. The home straight (350 m) is on 8 m wide tarmac.

For the Tourists

The carruggi, those alleyways just behind the harbour where Genoa’s heart has always beaten, are fascinating. The Palazzi dei Rolli are extraordinary, and the world-famous Aquarium is a must-see. Genoa always provides a good excuse for a guest to linger. However, the Giro doesn’t allow too much time, so we must make a mental note and return as soon as possible.

The day’s challenge is to keep ahead of the peloton, getting the timing right so you can visit some of the places en route.

Following the Aurelia, you will first reach Recco (where it doesn’t take a lot of imagination to stop in search of the most famous Ligurian focaccia) and soon after Camogli, also known as ‘the city of a thousand white sailing ships’, in memory of when it was home to many shipowners and their fleets, but which today dazzles with the colourful façades of the houses surrounding the port. Rapallo, located just behind the waterfront, preserves its medieval layout, featuring a 16th-century castle that appears as if suspended over the water. Then, Zoagli, Chiavari, Lavagna and Sestri Levante, worldly and refined at the same time.

This is where we temporarily bid farewell to the sea to ascend the Bracco Pass and explore the Val di Vara, home to a collection of historic villages. Beyond Santo Stefano Magra lies Sarzana, with its unmistakable silhouette marked by two fortresses: the Fortezza Firmafede, completed in 1492 and recently restored, and the Fortezza di Sarzanello. Here, make time to sample a plate of testaroli, the flagship dish of Lunigiana cuisine.

Piazza Anfiteatro in Lucca

Approaching the sea again, we pass through Carrara and Massa, towns known for the marble quarried from the nearby Apuan Alps, which are now prominently in view. Visiting the quarries requires a detour: you can reach the world-famous Fantiscritti quarries from Carrara. This journey is often combined with a visit to nearby Colonnata, the birthplace of the exquisite Lardo di Colonnata, aged in marble basins.
The next stop is Pietrasanta, a town of art and artists. The Cathedral of San Martino, styled in Romanesque-Renaissance fashion, and the ateliers of numerous sculptors and painters stand out. Many have chosen to live and work here, following in the footsteps of artists like Botero, Mitoraj, Joan Mirò, Pietro Cascella, Arnaldo, and Giò Pomodoro. Next is Camaiore, where you can admire the Lombard Abbey of San Pietro, dating back to the 8th century, and the 13th-century Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta.

The brief ascent to Montemagno sets the stage for the long final sprint.

Lucca is one of those cities that are well worth visiting. A tour of the Walls encircling the historic centre is essential for a comprehensive overview. The fortified ring spans 4,200 metres and is cycle-friendly, equipped with a lighting system that allows access even after sunset. The Torre delle Ore, accessible by climbing 207 steps, also offers panoramic views, as does the Guinigi Tower, distinguished by the seven Holm oak trees that crown its summit. However, Wearing the Pink, the event Lucca dedicates to the Giro d’Italia, takes place at ground level. It features an exhibition by Karl Kopinski, dedicated to international champions, and 12 inflatable spheres positioned around the city.